2019 - Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estephe

The 2019 Lafon-Rochet is tightly-wound on the nose, yet it seems delineated and focused, mineral-laden black fruit, sous-bois and dried tobacco scents unfurling in the glass. The palate is impressive with good concentration on the entry. This has an arching structure, fine acidity, off dry and slightly austere on the finish, but there is clearly the substance to ensure that it will age with style. Tasted blind at the Southwold annual tasting.

Clear tension and hold that heads towards austere, with tannins that close in on the finish and an emphasis on gunsmoke graphite and pencil lead. This needs time in the glass, but unwinds to show cassis and bilberry fruits, a little subdued but impressive, with potential to develop further over the next 10 to 15 years. The penultimate vintage under Basile Tesseron, just as this wine is reaching the market, ownership has changed from the Tesseron family to Jacky Lorenzetti.

A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc, the 2019 Lafon-Rochet is deep garnet-purple in color. It is quite closed to begin, revealing glimpses at blackcurrant jelly, fresh blackberries, and dark chocolate hints, followed by wafts of roses, cedar, and cumin seed. The medium-bodied palate is muscular and densely laden with serious black fruit and earthy layers, framed by firm, grainy tannins and seamless freshness, finishing with a spicy lift.

The 2019 Lafon-Rochet has turned out nicely in bottle, mingling aromas of blackberries and red fruits with hints of violets and pencil shavings. Medium to full-bodied, deep and seamless, with lively acids and ripe, powdery tannins, it's a bright, precise wine, with plenty of depth and structure to support sustained bottle age, but with enough modern polish to temper any suggestion of structural asperity.

Tasted blind. Looks reasonably evolved. Lots going on here with real fruity attack and a rather drying, hot finish. Needs quite a bit of time. (JR)