2019 - Durfort-Vivens, Margaux

The 2019 Dufort Vivens is a brilliant Margaux, unwinding in the glass with aromas of blackberries, licorice, sweet soil tones, spices and rose petals. Full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a fleshy core of fruit, rich, powdery tannins and a lively spine of acidity, it concludes with a long and penetrating finish. The blend is dominated by fully 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, which lends the wine immense nobility. Anyone who isn’t aware of just how good Gonzague Lurton’s wines are these days should taste a bottle.

This is precise, juicy, carved, black fruits, cassis and bilberry, slate, crayon, incredibly juicy with rise through the palate. By this point, the quality at Durfort-Vivens was really cooking, consistently impressive. 66% new oak and the rest in TAVA amphora. This is just a great great vintage, balanced and effortless and absolutely worth tracking down. Léopold Valentin technical director.

The 2019 Durfort-Vivens was matured in two-thirds new oak barrels and one-third in amphorae. Plush on the nose with blueberry and violet scents, this is Margaux in style though much tighter than I anticipated. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fine delineation and poise. It's pretty delineated towards the finish that shows more mineralité than previous vintages. There is an appealing linearity here, a trait that Gonzague Lurton seeks in his wines. Excellent. Tasted at the château.

Tasted blind. Dense colour with some development at the rim. Pruney flavours and really rather soft. (JR)