2014 - Brane-Cantenac, Margaux

Deep red in colour, now in its second decade and just starting to be fully ready to drink. A little austere, with grip and lift, and plenty of black fruits but less joy than some, and it's one of those vintages where the pleasure will come in the fully mature phase, when you're looking for truffles and spices rather than luscious fruits. Harvest September 22 to October 17, 44.8hl/h yield, 70% new French oak for ageing, 3.63ph. Eric Boissenot consultant, Henri Lurton owner, Christophe Capdeville technical director, with a new vineyard manager from this vintage, Pierre Auché, who joined Brane from Domaine Abbatucci in Corsica.

Medium to deep garnet-brick in color, the 2014 Brane-Cantenac leaps with vivacious notes of kirsch and redcurrant jelly followed by hints of dried mint, forest floor, and black pepper. The medium-bodied palate is vibrant and refreshing, with fine-grained tannins and a perfumed finish.

The 2014 Brane-Cantenac has a very classy bouquet, very well defined with blackberry, cedar and tobacco scents, that trademark graphite scent emerging with a few swirls of the glass. It is exactly what you expect from this Margaux estate. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, well-judged acidity, graphite and cedar towards the linear finish that will clearly need several years to unfold. Classic Margaux really, but wise owls will cellar it away for several years.

The 2014 Brane-Cantenac marked the arrival of a new vineyard manager, Pierre Auché. This has a lively, pretty and charming bouquet with redcurrant and wild strawberry scents bursting from the glass. Fine delineation. The oak is nicely integrated here. The palate is medium-bodied with powdery tannins and decent concentration considering the vintage. Black pepper and cedar notes emerge towards the grippy finish. Maybe it lacks the refinement of the best vintages, but at 11 years old it is beginning to drink well and should for another 15 years. Very fine. Tasted at the Brane-Cantenac vertical at the château in September 2025.

77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. 44.8 hl/ha.Crimson hue. Fresh and expressive on the nose with dark fruit to the fore. Round, supple and caressing on attack, the tannins fine and integrated. Clean, long finish. Not quite among the top years but harmonious and has all the necessary components. Probably good value. (JL)