2010 - Telmo Rodriguez Altos Lanzaga, Rioja

The 2010 Altos de Lanzaga is sourced from four different vineyards that they feel show the character of Lanciego, their idea of a grand cru. Tempranillo, Garnacha and Graciano from head-pruned, 70-year-old vines worked following biodynamic principles that ferment naturally – no external yeasts are added to any of their wines – in 3,000-kilo oak vats for 20 days and aged for 18 months in 1,500-liter oak foudres and 225-liter barriques. The wine ages very slowly, in a very cold cellar, so it might take a year to carry out malolactic (the temperature in the cave is 12-14º C all year around). It’s a deep, austere, mineral-driven wine with a complex nose with subtle aromas of soil, fresh red and black fruit notes and a whiff of spices in very good balance. In the palate it is very tight, fine, long with silky tannins, somehow closed. Fruit, fermentation and wood seem to play a secondary role in the wine that speaks mainly of the place. This might not be a wine for everybody, but I think it’s super! Drink 2016-2027. Telmo Rodriguez and his partner Pablo Eguzkiza produced some exceptional wines in 2010, which is no surprise, as they have been going from strength to strength in the last few years. The surprise is a new single vineyard bottling from Rioja; I think they have finally fulfilled their dream (I remember hearing this from Telmo 15 years ago) to have the privilege to own some exceptional vineyards and produce small quantities of wines from them. They now have As Caborcas in Valdeorras, Las Beatas in Rioja, and others will come from Ribera del Duero, from Cebreros. Some exciting wines are in the pipeline. Imported by Vintus Wine, Pleasantville NY; tel. (914) 769-3000; vintuswines.com

Deep ruby. Powerful, highly perfumed aromas of ripe red fruits, potpourri and incense, with Asian spice, mineral and woodsmoke nuances adding complexity. Sweet, broad and palate-staining, offering intense raspberry and cherry flavors enlivened by juicy acidity and a suggestion of peppery spices. Concentrated yet lithe wine with outstanding finishing clarity and lift; smooth tannins blend seamlessly with the wine's intense fruit.

Bushvine Tempranillo, Graciano and Garnacha from the village of Lanciego. Planted at 500-600 m on a sandstone plateau. Flat shallow soils, stony, calcareous and silty textured. Low fertility and low water-retention capacity. All fruit from own biodynamically farmed 4-ha vineyard. 4,740 bottles. Fermented with native yeasts in oak vats (3,000 kg), matured 18 months in big oak casks and smaller barrels. Bottled June 2012.Dark crimson. Smoky/mineral/graphite first impression, perhaps even a light note of vanilla sweetness and plenty of dark-red and black fruit, maybe also a dried-cherry sweetness. Intense and complex combination of savoury, dark and sweet on the palate, with maybe just a little oak spice. Every component flavour is subtle. Dry, almost chalky, dense but incredibly fine texture. Still young and not yet at its most expressive. So dry and yet still supple. Makes the Lanzaga seem fruity by comparison. One of the most beautiful wines I have tasted in a long time.  (JH)