2005 - Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts, Domaine de Montille

There are to be two de Montille wines labeled 2005 Vosne Romanee Les Malconsorts, both from parts of that vineyard sold by Liger-Belair to Thomas-Moillard in the same year (1935) that they sold neighboring La Tache to the Domaine de la Romanee-Conti. The “regular” cuvee displays deep plum and black raspberry fruit, vivid spice (cumin, star anise, clove, white pepper), and lily flower. It comes to the palate amazingly dense, sultry, and precociously plush and creamy. The brightness of fruit and tactile intensity of spice linger with chalk and stone mineral suggestions in a finish of exceptional breadth and length. Various importers, including Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 559 1040. Also, a Thomas Calder Selection, Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29

The 2005 Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts 1er Cru from Domaine de Montille was the maiden vintage after the family acquired several holdings from Domaine Thomas-Moillard. It has an entrancing bouquet with perfumed red fruit, tobacco, Morello cherries and loam. The palate is medium-bodied and velvety smooth, revealing notes of sour cherry mixed with white-tipped strawberries. But as I really analyse this wine, I can't help feeling that it needs more complexity and falls a little short on the finish. Tasted at the 05/15 Burgundy dinner in The Good Earth.