2019 - Chateauneuf-du-Pape Chateau de Beaucastel Roussanne Vieilles Vignes

There are a mere 500 cases of the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Roussanne Vieilles Vignes, which derives from vines planted in 1909. Showing fabulous richness and opulence allied to an impeccable sense of balance and nearly infinite persistence, it's a tour de force of white Châteauneuf. Hints of roasted pineapple and grilled lime mark the nose, while the medium to full-bodied palate boasts layers of honeyed, creamy decadence yet remains dry, zesty and refreshing at the same time. Like most great wines, it's a study in seeming contradictions drawn together into seamless elegance. While there's a chance this wine may go through a quiescent phase, it's singing now, and if history is any indication, it will also drink well in a decade or so.

100% Roussanne. Above is the oak selected by the Perrins for ageing the 2023 vintage of this wine. See more about oak in Matthew Hayes' article. Gorgeous nose, toasted and nutty, a rich almond and hazelnut character. Subtle peach character underneath the golden-apple fruit, the creamy mouthfeel is supported by balanced freshness. Long fine finish, rich but also refined and defined – layered, and with age this will be a stunner. (AC)