2008 - Taittinger, Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs

The 2008 Comtes de Champagne is every bit as stunning as it has always been. The first signs of aromatic complexity are starting to appear, while there is a bit less of the youthful austerity that was present at the outset. It will be interesting to see how the 2018 continues to develop. It is certainly not the austere, bracing Champagne it was a few years ago. Hints of apricot, slate, mint, crushed rocks and light tropical accents build into the salivating finish.

Taittinger's 2008 Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne is being released this year, and it will be worth a special effort to track down. I wrote in August 2019 that this is the finest Comtes de Champagne since the brilliant 2002, and this tasting confirmed that. Offering up a deep and complex bouquet of citrus oil, crisp orchard fruit, warm brioche, crushed chalk, blanched almonds and smoke, it's full-bodied and incisive, with excellent concentration, racy acids and a long, searingly chalky finish. While this is already immensely impressive out of the gates, this 2008 is clearly built for the long haul, and three decades' longevity won't be a challenge.

Disgorged 3 June 2021. Deep gold. Great breadth and richness of flavour but still, texturally, it is tight as anything. Rather an unusual mixture! Incredibly impressive length and the crème-pâtissière note often found in Comtes. But no real hurry to drink. (JR)