2012 - Pol Roger, Sir Winston Churchill

Pol Roger"s flagship Brut Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill is fabulous in 2012. Rich, open-knit and seductive, the 2012 will drink well right out of the gate, although it certainly has the pedigree to age well for decades. Lemon confit, chamomile, dried flowers, mint, spice and a kick of brioche infuse the 2012 with notable textural richness and resonance. Time in the glass brings out gorgeous aromatic lift to round things out. The 2012 is classy and polished all the way.

Richer and fleshier than the 2013, the 2012 Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill offers up aromas of ripe citrus and orchard fruits mingled with buttered toast, hazelnuts and confit peach. Full-bodied, layered and gourmand, with an enveloping core of fruit, excellent depth at the core and a pretty pinpoint mousse, it remains harmonious and precise despite its broader-shouldered format.

Magnum. More caramel and toffee than the 2013, with green apple and a bit of fresh-cut herb. Powerful and full, with great length and volume – yet despite that intensity, there is plentiful tone of voice. Perhaps less saline than the 2013, but with more candied character and definitely more persistent. (RH)