2019 - Hermitage La Chapelle Rouge, Paul Jaboulet Aine

Last year, I giddily speculated whether the 2019 Hermitage La Chapelle would warrant a 100-point score. While close—and I wouldn't completely discount it reaching that pinnacle in another decade or two—I'm not sure this wine is as good as I thought. It boasts exciting aromas of roasted meat, mocha, crushed stone, plum and cassis on the nose. It's full-bodied, concentrated, richly tannic and velvety in texture. It's long and complex on the finish, adding hints of cracked pepper and salted licorice. And yet, as much as I enjoyed tasting it and as undeniably great it is, angels didn't sing from the heavens. Maybe next bottle.

Dark, vivid purple. Highly perfumed, mineral- and spice-accented aromas of blackberry, cherry preserves, incense, olive and pungent flowers show superb clarity. Sappy and penetrating on the palate, offering deeply concentrated and sharply defined black and blue fruit preserve, candied violet, bitter chocolate and fruitcake flavors that become livelier as the wine opens up. Finishes wonderfully long with an emphatic, mineral cut, a repeating floral note and youthfully gripping tannins.

Very deep blackish crimson. Smells very ripe, almost overripe! Overdone? Certain needs a bit more freshness. Bit of heat on the end. BIG! And even a bit blowsy. Maybe it will come into balance but for now it’s a little bit formless and hollow. (JR)