2019 - Cote Rotie Cote Brune, Rostaing

For the second time in the past four vintages, this parcel of vines—replanted in 2000—has yielded a "perfect" wine. Rostaing's 2019 Cote Rotie Cote Brune boasts crazy but harmonious complexity on the nose. From scents of violets and rose petals to red raspberries and currants and on to savory tones of black olives and mocha, there's just so much going on, yet all combine effortlessly to pull the taster inexorably into the wine. Then the swells of concentration and layers of texture cross the palate, lingering in velvety richness on the long, vibrant finish. Just. Wow.

Opaque ruby color. Deeply perfumed aromas of ripe black and blue fruits, licorice, incense, exotic spices, potpourri and olive on the intensely perfumed nose. Stains the palate with sappy blackcurrant, kirsch, boysenberry, fruitcake and candied violet flavors, and steadily picks up spiciness and smoky minerality with aeration. Rich and weighty, in the style of the vintage, but energetic as well, finishing with superb clarity, youthfully gripping tannins and outstanding, blue fruit- and mineral-driven tenacity. I slightly underestimated this remarkable wine from barrel.

Cask sample, tasted at the domaine. Lots of fruit on the nose, pink grapefruit and clove. The palate is firm and has a lovely graphite earthy note – a broad weighty velvety mouthfeel and spiced raspberry notes. Powerful and rich here with the earthy minerality coming through on the long finish. (AC)