2011 - Cotes du Roussillon-Villages r.i, Domaine de Bila-Haut (M. Chapoutier)

The mind blowing 2011 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Lesquerde Rectificando Invenies (RI) shows a slightly more pure profile, with Hermitage-like aromas and flavors of cassis, black raspberry, toast and crushed rock. Full-bodied, concentrated, perfectly balanced and elegant, with notable underlying structure and freshness, It can be enjoyed anytime over the coming decade or more. These single vineyard releases were easily some the most impressive wines I was able to taste during my trip through the region. Any project Michel Chapoutier is involved with seems to excel, and his Roussillon Bila Haut domaine is no exception. With vineyards around the villages of Latour de France and Lesquerde, this estate releases five reds; the entry level Les Vignes de Bila Haut, which comes from a number of vineyards (and is a screaming value); the L’Esquerde, mostly Syrah from the higher elevation, granite soils around the village of Lesquerde; the Occultum Lapidem, which is made from Syrah, Grenache and Carignan from around the village of Latour de France; and his two single vineyard releases, the VIT from Latour de France and the RI from Lesquerde. These last two get close to the pinnacle of Syrah, and will stand toe to toe with the greatest Syrahs from the northern Rhone and California. Unfortunately, they’re only produced in minuscule quantities, but don’t miss a chance to grab some if you can. While the 2011s are stronger than the 2012s, I was able to taste the 2012s twice, once last year, in October during my trip through the northern Rhone, and then again from bottle in January at the domaine in the Roussillon. They showed even better from bottle, and these ratings may be conservative as I think these wines will continue to improve. We started out with the Marius wines, which are value-priced and deliver solid character. The Agly Brothers is imported by Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; tel. (800) 622-2234; all other wines by: H. B. Wine Merchants, New York, NY; tel. (917) 40

Dark, purplish crimson. Gosh, what a contrast after the Chapoutier Hermitages! Big and sweet and so much simpler, but very sophisticated indeed in terms of build compared with most Roussillon reds. Obviously quite a high altitude vineyard with fresh acidity. Could be a great buy if not too expensive.    (JR)