2019 - Meursault 1er Cru Clos des Boucheres, Roulot

Aromas of orange oil, pear and nutmeg, complemented by hints of mint and fresh pastry, preface Roulot's 2019 Meursault 1er Cru Clos des Bouchères, a medium to full-bodied wine that's more chiseled than the corresponding Charmes, with lovely structuring dry extract, but it also shows the elevated maturity of the vintage more obviously in a slightly heady finish. So, it will be especially interesting to see how this performs in bottle after further élevage.

The 2019 Meursault Clos de Bouchère 1er Cru fomented much controversy about whether it showed signs of TCA. The bottle was rejected during the blind tasting due to a minor trait. It was returned to the bottle and re-poured later, by which time it was felt that the TCA was no longer evident. The 2019 shows fragrant white flowers, white peach and orange pith scents with fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly rounded texture, a fine bead of acidity, fresh with a gentle grip and a caressing finish. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.

Chalky soils (cf more clay in Charmes). 2011 was their first vintage. Part planted 1980s, the rest last replanted 1950s and 1970s. ‘Nearly’ organic when purchased. A sunny site so harvested early (7 September). One Stockinger (5 barrels worth), one steel barrel, one sandstone jar, and one glass jar plus barrels. ‘The steel barrel has to work with finer lees because it’s reductive. But I don’t intend to fill my cellar with steel barrels.’ pH 3.23. Tank sample. Real lift and finesse on the nose. Exciting! Delicate despite the alcohol. Long and exciting. Green-fruit flavours, and long. (JR)