2014 - Louis Roederer, Blanc de Blancs

Disgorged with just over seven grams per liter dosage, Roederer's 2014 Brut Blanc de Blancs is showing brilliantly, wafting from the glass with aromas of citrus oil, orchard fruit, freshly baked bread and white flowers, framed by subtly reductive top notes. Medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, it's pillowy and enveloping, with lively acids and a pearly, lower-pressure mousse, concluding with a long, chalky finish. Derived entirely from Avize, it's one of the great sleeper cuvées in contemporary Champagne.

Roederer"s 2014 Brut Blanc de Blancs sizzles with tension and energy. Citrus, white flowers, crushed rocks and white pepper race across the palate. Most of the attention at Roederer falls to other wines, most notable the Cristals and the NV, but the Blanc de Blancs is a quiet wine that often overachieves, as it does in 2014. Superb.