1988 - Ornellaia, Tenuta Marchese Lodovico A.

Goes long on Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend, and showcases the elegant, elongated tannic structure that this grape grows into with age. It feels younger than the 1993 we are also tasting in the line up, and is filled with umami flavours of soy and truffle, alongside autumnal blackberries, cold ash, smoked fennel, mint leaf and eucalyptus. Builds in power as it opens in the glass, this makes you beg for food, and provides a welcoming reminder that great Italian wines are just thrilled to make you happy. A vintage with hot sunny weather, harvest from September 14 through to the end of the month. Aged in 40% new oak for 11 months, then 16 months in bottle before release, winemaker Andrea Giovannini. Served from magnum.

Good deep healthy red. Complex nose combines raspberry, truffle, mint and earth. Big, rich, sweet and mouthfilling; dense and suave. Red fruit flavors are complicated by notes of tobacco, chocolate and mint. Finishes with very fine, building tannins. A well-structured, very polished wine.

Very dark crimson with definitely aged rim. Sweet complex bouquet, very well melded and flattering. Very easy to like and much gentler than the 1985. Lovely apogee now. Great drinking now although there is still a little tannin here and acidity just threatening to emerge a bit much. Fresh yet sweet. 13% CS:M:CF 80:16:4 76,000 bottles (JR)