2021 - La Conseillante, Pomerol

The 2021 La Conseillante is bright, fresh and fruity, with lovely red fruit character and fine balance. Crushed berries, rose petal, lavender, chalk, mint and spice are beautifully delineated. In 2021, La Conseillante is a Pomerol of tension, nerve and delicacy more than volume. Time in the glass brings out bright floral notes that extend the finish. The blend is 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc that spent 18 months in French oak—70% new, 27% once-filled barrels and 3% amphora. The 2021 is such a classy wine. I can't wait to see how it ages. The 2021 possesses a Burgundian sense of structure, for lack of a better term. Harvest started on September 28 for the Merlots, very late by recent standards, through October 1. The Cabernets were picked on October 6 and 12. The alcohol (13%) and pH (3.6) readings are those from another era.

The 2021 La Conseillante unwinds in the glass with aromas of black raspberries and mulberries mingled with vine smoke, rose petals and spices, framed by a discreet touch of new oak. This is medium to full-bodied, suave and enveloping, with a velvety attack that segues into a layered, multidimensional palate that's framed by ultra-refined tannins and animated by ripe acids. Long and perfumed, this has turned out beautifully. It was bottled in June, seeing three rackings and a very light egg-white fining during élevage.

2021 is the 150th anniversary of La Conseillante. This vintage was harvested between the 28th of September and the 12th of October and is a blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc. It has a medium to deep garnet-purple color and it leaps from the glass with notes of wild blueberries, raspberry coulis, and kirsch, leading to nuances of red roses, clove oil, underbrush, and charcoal, plus a touch of wild thyme. The light to medium-bodied palate is satiny, smooth and refreshing, delivering vivacious red and blue fruit layers, with a long finish and suggestions of fragrant earth.

Once again you see the subtle floral character of Pomerol in this vintage, and here is a classically balanced La Conseillante. Need to give it a bit of time in the glass to get the creamy mid-palate, but the structure is not closing in on itself as the bigger vintages do at this stage, so you see the silky tannins and fresh acidities. Draws out through the palate, clear salinity on the finish that maintains grip and lift, gentle spice on the finish, white pepper and clove, a very pretty wine, should be ready to drink in three or four years and for 15 years to come. Director Marielle Cazeaux. Michel Rolland consultant. Harvest September 28 to October 12, 39hl/h yield, 70% new oak with 3% amphora and 3.5% press wine. Simple 150th anniversary engraving on the bottle, but the label the same as ever.

Tasted blind. Smudgy rim. Smooth and sweet but without much subtlety. Very unevolved. Difficult to judge how this will mature. Very drying on the end at the moment. (JR)