2019 - Les Perrieres Lafleur, Bordeaux Superieur

A striking wine from the limestone plateau of Fronsac planted with massale selections from Lafleur, the 2019 Les Perrières de Lafleur is indecently good. Bursting with aromas of raspberries, violets, warm spices and rose petals, it's full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a racy, tensile profile and a long, intensely mineral finish. Les Perrières de Lafleur is compelling testimony to the primacy of vine genetics over age, as the Cabernet Franc here is a mere 3-4 years old and the Merlot 7-8, yet the resulting wine already boasts incredible intensity and character. It certainly puts the "Supérieur" in the appellation "Bordeaux Supérieur."

This has earthy, graphite-laced cool blue fruits that you wouldn't necessarily associate with a solar vintage like 2019. It says a lot for the deft, skilful winemaking, as this delivers a sense of verticality and lift through the palate, and edges of elderflower and pencil lead delicacy. Gathers in intensity, reflects its limestone soils. Demands attention and patience. From the Guinaudeau family, as with Château Lafleur in Pomerol.

The 2019 Les Perrières de Lafleur has more complexity, delineation and focus than the previous vintage—a little more personality. Scents of crushed stone underlie its veneer of black fruit. The palate is bright and sapid, very focused and poised, but there is real concentration and grip on the finessed, lengthy finish. Excellent. Tasted from ex-château magnum at Kate & Kon's 40-Year vertical in Austria.

The 2019 Les Perrieres is composed of 2/3 Bouchet (Cabernet Franc) and 1/3 Merlot. Deep garnet-purple in color, it opens with considerable oak scents on the nose followed by a core of red and black plums, plus suggestions of fruitcake and Indian spices. The full-bodied palate is packed with oak-laced fruit, supported by chewy tannins and a lively backbone, finishing savory.

Bright, light crimson. Some real right-bank concentration with freshness, too. But no bargain! (JR)