2014 - Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru La Combe d'Orveau, Taupenot-Merme

Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2014 tasting, the 2014 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Combe d'Orveau from Taupenot-Merme has a more understated bouquet than Groffier's 2014 Les Haut Doix, perhaps more Morey-Saint-Denis in style, yet it is nicely focused and fresh and delivers ample mineralité. The palate is very well balanced with good substance, sappy black fruit laced with spice and a very dense but poised finish that feels primal and backwards now but will hopefully age with style. This surpasses my estimation from barrel, hence the higher score. Tasted September 2017.

Healthy bright red. Deep, spicy, mineral-driven nose began quite subdued but notes of pungent red fruits, licorice and violet emerged with air. Very rich, saline wine with lovely penetration and depth to its densely packed, saline flavors. This vin de terroir was initially dominated by strong soil character but lively black fruit flavors emerged as the wine opened in the glass. Still, this potentially outstanding wine is a bit youthfully strict in the early going and will require patience.

Taupenot’s oldest vineyard with 65-year-old vines. Heady nose. Rich and yet nervy. (JR)