2017 - Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Clos de la Chapelle Blanc, Domaine du Duc de Magenta (Louis Jadot)

A candidate for extended cellaring in Jadot's range this year is the 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Clos de la Chapelle (Domaine du Duc de Magenta), a beautifully incisive wine that meets the high expectations I formed when I tasted it from barrel a year ago. Opening in the glass with aromas of crisp Anjou pear, peach, fresh pastry and honeycomb, it's medium to full-bodied, elegantly textural and youthfully tight-knit, with fabulous structural tension and a racy spine of acidity. Bottled under Diam 30, this tensile but concentrated Morgeot will really begin to sing in six or seven years.

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot Clos de la Chapelle 1er Cru has an intense nose, perhaps not quite as delineated as its peers; just a slight reduction suggests this will require 4–5 years in bottle. Coming back after 10 minutes, there are more tropical scents of pineapple and touches of passion fruit. The palate is well balanced with modest depth and fine acidity but does not quite have the charm or complexity of its peers. Spicy on the finish. I wonder if this is just beginning to close down, because it doesn't match the showing from barrel. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune.

Monopole. Cask sample. Sweet nose of crème pâtissière. Rather opulent and fulsome. Verging on grand cru weight. For those looking for a grand cru experience at a premier cru price, this could be a good bet. Quite long, and fresher than the Bâtard. (JR)