2022 - Canon, Saint-Emilion

The 2022 Canon has turned out brilliantly in bottle. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of sweet raspberries, wild berries and cherries mingled with hints of violets, pencil shavings, black truffle and rose petals, it's full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a dense, enveloping core of fruit underpinned by a chassis of sweet, suave tannins, concluding with a long, saline finish. This is one of the most muscular, broad-shouldered vintages of Canon in recent years, but it retains every bit of its limestone-driven identity. As I wrote two years ago, this is an estate that is delivering its greatest run of vintages since the superb Post War series that preceded the frosts of 1956, and the 2022 is indeed reminiscent of a modern day version of one of those great years.

This is 75% Merlot, and 25% Cabernet Franc, matured in barrel for 18 months, including 50% new oak. Harvesting started at 5 am here, by torchlight, to keep the coolness and freshness in the fruit. Revisited now that it is in bottle it shows quite reticently on the nose, being slow to reveal its dark and brooding yet floral aromatics, with notes of cranberry, black cherry, black pepper and white rose petals, as well as the suggestion of a defined and linear limestone tension. The palate holds together well, with a very restrained and yet perfumed core of fruit, supported by a rich limestone tannic structure, giving it a bright and peppery edge. It feels elegant and pure, focused and long, with a midpalate and finish wrapped in powdery tannins. It has length, although it is packed out with a tannic grip which lingers on and on. This is a super Canon, filled with tension and structure;it is set to develop in a quite brilliant fashion. Tasted three times. The alcohol on the label is 14.5%.

Well structured, an exceptional wine, and one that will age without a worry. Great depth to the creamy black, blue and red fruits, enjoyable sage and white pepper spice, touches of lemongrass and mandarin peel, plenty of concentration, has signature and complexity, with an ocean spray salinity on the finish. 45hl/h yield after careful vineyard work to protect the grapes from the heat, aged in 50% new oak, including four large oak casks, in organic conversion.

The 2022 Canon has a more floral bouquet, with violet and wilted rose petal infusing the red fruit, well defined, with an underlying mineralité manifesting with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, brisk and focused, sapid with a tingle of allspice towards the sustained and animated finish. Great potential and unequivocally one of the greatest vintages of Canon in recent years. Tasted blind at the Southwold tasting in London.

Tasted blind. Sweet and mild. Gentle and unforced. Energy is on the palate not the nose. Admirable! But there’s a lot still to unfurl here. Still lots of tannin on the end. (JR)