2021 - Seven Springs Vineyard Chardonnay, Morgen Long, Eola-Amity Hills

Although the 2021 Chardonnay Seven Springs Vineyard is still in tank, it's shaping up to be one of the best iterations of this single-vineyard wine. Matchstick nuances open to perfumed peach, lemon peel, acacia, almonds and allspice on the nose, unfurling continuously as it spends time in the glass. The medium-bodied palate offers slow waves of pure, gently honeyed fruit. It's concentrated yet weightless, and its combination of generous fruit and mouthwatering acidity creates a haunting finish that calls you back to the glass.

Harvested 7 and 10 September. Organically farmed without irrigation. Dijon clones 95 and 76 planted on Jory and Nekia silty clay loam soils over volcanic basalt. Planted in 2012 on 101-14 rootstock. Vines spaced 4 x 6 ft, facing south-east at 500–550 ft on a 2.7–5.5% slope. Block B was hand-picked 7 September, Block E was hand-picked 10 September and crushed into the press. Press fractions browned in cold stainless-steel tanks for six hours before a 45 ppm SO2 addition. Ambient-yeast fermentations began in steel tanks before lots were transferred with solids to a mix of new, once-filled and twice-filled Damy puncheons. Matured for 12 months in oak before being blended and aged for six more months in stainless-steel tank. Final blend is 50% new, 26% once-filled and 24% twice-filled puncheons. Bottled 28 February 2023 under Diam 10. No fining or filtration. TA 7.3, pH 3.1, approximately 45 ppm free SO2.Tasted blind. Intense brown spice, lemon pith and smoky, reductive edge. The reduction carries onto the palate. Perhaps because sulphured and bottled recently? Opens up with high, bright acidity and a candied-citrus finish but takes a while. I'd decant this vigorously if drinking now, but I'd recommend waiting. Added after blind tasting: having experience with these wines, they take forever to come around and are often best on day three. Either wait a few years and/or give this a vigorous double decant. Likely would have showed better with more time in the glass. (SCJ)