2021 - Villa Maria, Keltern Chardonnay

Cuddling skinny people is no fun at all. I wouldn't want to hug me - there's nothing to get hold of, but the 2021 Chardonnay Keltern has curves in all the right places and plenty of substance to hold on to in its middle. Sumptuous is probably a good word to describe the ripe and creamy, full body but don't get the impression this is a soft pudding of a wine. Its rich power is held like a vise, keeping its shape and allowing for a firm, almost relentless finish. In the elite of New Zealand Chardonnays, the 2021 proves it rightly deserves its place.

The 2021 Keltern Chardonnay leads with fresh buttered popcorn, sesame brittle, toasted cashews, yellow peach and even cantaloupe. In the mouth, the wine is fleshy and plump, with loads of plump yellow fruit, saffron and peppercorns. Exotic. Lush, even. There are pistachios and pineapple husk. Very ripe, with juicy acid. 14.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.

Full screwcapped bottle all of 1,444 g. Vines planted in 1999 on the former Ngaruroro riverbed, a site now renowned in the NZ Chardonnay canon that hasn't been replanted with Sauvignon Blanc! Spontaneous fermentation in French barriques (27% new) and some two years old. Then aged for 10 months in barriques. Mid greenish straw. Some struck match on the nose and very pure, crystalline fruit on the palate, with lots of citrus acidity, though there isn't much aftertaste. My only reproach. It recalls Australian-stye Chardonnay, being pretty tight and just not austere at this stage – though Villa Maria suggest drinking it ‘til 2033. (JR)