1983 - Leoville Poyferre, Saint-Julien

Next, one of my favourites, the 1983 Léoville-Poyferré. It had been some years since I tasted this Saint-Julien, and it has always been over-shadowed by former proprietor Didier Cuvelier’s splendid 1982. Ignore it at your peril. Showing light bricking on the rim, it delivers a wonderful nose of red plum, freshly-rolled tobacco, autumn leaves and a hint of cassis borrowed from Pauillac. It was actually richer than I recalled, and blind, I might guess the previous vintage. The palate does not disappoint. Now fully-mature, again, it is more opulent in style than you might expect, portending the richer style the estate has successfully pursued under consultant Michel Rolland. Beautifully balanced with a sensual, quite plush finish, this over-delivers. Drink it over the next decade.

One of the superstar 1983s that is not beginning to crack up and decline, Leoville-Poyferre’s effort exhibits a dark garnet color, a sweet nose of plum liqueur intermixed with licorice, black currants, weedy tobacco, and herbes de Provence. The wine is round, seductive, with a certain degree of opulence, low acidity, gorgeous fruit, and a nice layered palate impression. It makes for quite a seductive style of wine. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. Last tasted, 3/02.

Sweet almost honeyed nose. Exotic aromas, but drier and more eyewatering on the palate. (JH)