2021 - Saint-Joseph, Pierre Gonon

The 2021 Saint-Joseph from the Gonon Brothers is simply gorgeous within the context of the vintage. Evoking aromas of fresh licorice, dark cherries, smoke and dark berries, it's medium to full-bodied, concentrated and slightly austere with structured yet delicate tannins and a long, ethereal and mineral finish. The wine’s brooding and gently introverted character can be attributed to the hailstorm that struck on the night of September 29, which interrupted the harvest. This Saint-Joseph will benefit from some time to mellow and fully express its potential.

The 2021 Saint-Joseph used roughly 50% whole-clusters during fermentation. In comparison, 2022 saw 85% inclusion, while in 2017, no destemming was applied. Coming in at 12.5% alcohol, the deep purple-hued 2021 unfurls with pretty red fruits paired with leafy undertones and cedar. Orange blossom and rose petal add welcome floral lift. Light to medium in body, this is a delicate Gonon, neatly framed by velvety tannins and bright acidity. It should drink well right out of the gate. Tasted twice with consistent notes.

Vivid purple colour. Light-bodied in the correct St-Jo style, and definitely comparable to cru beaujolais. Lightly spiced at this stage, with petals not yet unfurled. A lighter vintage than some, it seems – but there's little doubt it will mature well, as this producer's wines always do. (RH)