2021 - Les Perrieres Lafleur, Bordeaux Superieur

The 2021 Les Perrières is a very serious wine, just as it was en primeur. Dark cherry, mocha, licorice, spice, gravel and crushed rocks build effortlessly. There's a level of dynamic energy here that is just beguiling. Cabernet Franc and limestone soils are so distinctive. I would give this a few years in bottle. Impressive.

The cooler vintage has lent the 2021 Les Perrières de Lafleur an even greater sense of transparency than preceding vintages, even if this bottling has always had a remarkably pronounced site signature. Unfurling in the glass with deep aromas of raspberries, plums, Indian spices, burning embers and licorice, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with beautifully refined tannins, lively acids and an intensely mineral finish.

A blend of 38% Merlot and 62% Cabernet Franc (Bouchet), the 2021 Les Perrieres from Chateau Lafleur has a medium to deep garnet-purple color. It starts off a little shy, soon unfurling to reveal notes of redcurrant preserves, fresh blackberries, and Sichuan pepper, followed by nuances of star anise, underbrush, and wild sage. The medium-bodied palate is very tightly wound, with vibrant red berry and savory layers, framed by fine-grained tannins and great tension, finishing on a lingering, peppery note.

Sculpted cool vintage fruit, with a defined spine, gunsmoke, slate, blueberry and red cherry. High floral aromatics, with grip and salinity. Delivers delicacy and a sense of carefully stepping through the palate, a definite wine to look out for. You have to work a little with it, allow it to open slowly and carefully. Suggest giving a few more years in bottle but it will be worth the wait. From the same team as Château Lafleur in Pomerol.

Tasted blind. A little ripe fruit and lots of pinched quality on the end. Green. (JR)