2022 - Symington, Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage

I found the regular and classical vintage wine, the 2022 Vintage Port, to be a lot more expressive, aromatic, floral and complex than the (much more expensive) Capela do Quinta do Vesúvio. It has a dense and seamless palate, full, rich, expressive and tasty, with plenty of tannins but with all its components in nice harmony. It's intense and long, very precise, large but proportioned. This should develop very nicely and for a long time in bottle. This 2022 was crafted with 45% Touriga Nacional, 33% Touriga Franca and an unusually high 22% of Alicante Bouschet. It has 20% alcohol, with a pH of 3.63 and 112 grams of acidity. Often the sweet wines look better in comparative tastings; this one did. It does seem to have more of everything...

An estate in the Douro Superior acquired 1989 and the single biggest in the Symington Family Estates portfolio. Seven hills and every aspect to play with. Only 4% of the estate's grapes went into this wine. 'Topography is key in this vintage – choosing the protected plots', explained Charles Symington. 'It was amazing we could produce anything.' Symington refers to this as 'the racehorse of our stable'. Foot-trodden. Black with narrow rim. Lavender, esteva (wild rock roses), mineral and surprisingly open and scented – more lavender as it opens in the glass. Powder-fine yet powerful tannins, lots of freshness, black fruit and blueberry. Chalky, chewy tannins as they build in the mouth, sinewy and muscular but not heavy at all. Exceptional length. Dry, dark-chocolate finish. (JH)