2022 - Berliquet, Saint-Emilion

The 2022 Berliquet has a composed bouquet, a melange of red and black fruit, cedar and briar, gently unfolding. Real class. The palate is framed by silky-smooth tannins, fresh and vibrant, closing down a little towards the finish but retaining focus and delineation. There is a precision here that will see it through and eventually become a very classy Saint-Émilion '22. Tasted blind at the Southwold tasting in London.

A small 7.5ha vineyard with limestone cellars underneath, on plateau overlooking the valley below. Investment from owners Chanel over last few years is beginning to make its presence felt. This is really tasty, love the sense of lift and chalkiness to the structure that gives a cushion to the fruit, a great quality Berliquet, delivers on En Primeur promise. 44% new oak barrels, 8 amphoras, the rest in one year old barrel, 45hl/h yield. In organic conversion.

The 2022 Berliquet offers up lovely aromas of raspberries, cherries, violets and pencil shaving, followed by a medium to full-bodied, lively and seamless palate that's dense and muscular, with rich tannin and a mineral finish. As readers will remember, this is an estate on the rise, with changes including opting to retain higher canopies, which means that the fruiting zone of rows planted along the slope are now shaded, preserving freshness.

This is a blend of 65% Merlot and 35% Cabernet Franc, and the élevage was in 44% new oak and the remainder in older oak and eight amphorae. A rather dark and perfumed nose to this 2022 St Emilion, opening out with a little time to reveal perfumed red cherry and currant, a touch of pomegranate, with a sandalwood and tobacco overlay, with crushed chalk and white flowers. The palate shows a lovely coherence, with a finely poised and delineated core of fruit, opening out to reveal a soft, broad and powdery texture, the sweetness of the perfumed fruit infused with this hearty tannic structure. An interpretation of the vintage with a robust build, which only seems to be emphasised by tasting it next to the supremely elegant Canon, both properties being in the hands of Chanel. This one will demand some cellar time. Tasted three times. The alcohol on the label is 14.5%.

65% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc.Deep crimson. Intense cassis and cassis-leaf aroma. Surprisingly leafy for this vintage. Lots of freshness but overall a bit austere in a generous vintage. Big up front and powerful on the finish but leaner in the middle. Sweet/sour finish. (JH)