2020 - Vinas Viejas de Soria, Dominio de Es (Bertrand Sourdais), Ribera del Duero

I also tasted the bottled version of the 2020 Viñas Viejas de Soria that I had already tasted from barrel previously, as winemaker Bertrand Sourdais was convinced it was something exceptional since the wine has much lower alcohol than ever—this is 12.97% when it regularly reaches close to 15% alcohol. It fermented with 25% full clusters in 1,500- to 3,000-liter oak vats followed by malolactic in barrel and 15 months in French oak barrels, 25% of them new. This is every bit what the barrel sample promised—paler than the 2021 I tasted next to it, perfumed, fine-boned and with great balance and freshness, coming through as elegant and powerful. At the same time, it also feels more and more like old-school Ribera del Duero, like the wines from the past... 7,893 bottles were filled in February 2022.

93.4% Tempranillo, 4.4% Abillo, 2.2% Alicante Bouschet.NHB. Transparent garnet. Lively, light and fresh. Sinewy and very unlike most Riberas, Presumably based on very old vines. Well done and really interesting. Very 21st century. (JR)