2007 - Scharzhofberger Riesling, Van Volxem

The Van Volxem 2007 Scharzhofberger Riesling P (the initial referring to Pergentsknopp, a distinct upper portion of the Scharzhofberg) smells of almond, apricot, and high-toned herbal essences. This is a rare instance among non-botrytis wines of this estate where sweetness is distinctly noticeable, but it is still subtle and well-woven into the fabric, with bitter-sweet floral, pungently herbal, bitterly fruit pit, toasted nuts, and wet stone offering counterpoint. This displays a more layered sense of complexity but less lift and elegance than the Volz. I expect it will be worth following for at least 6-8 years. Except for three that don’t taste dry, this year’s van Volxem bottlings weigh in at between 11.5% and 12% alcohol, and range between 5 and 18 grams of residual sugar (none however labeled “trocken,” in keeping not only with with proprietor Roman Niewodniczanski’s penchant for judicious residual sugar, but also his admirable attempt to de-emphasize that term). Predictably, too, no fining of any sort was performed on the musts. The top wines were as usual here not bottled until late summer. For details on the house style and Niewodniczanski’s ambitions, please consult earlier reports, notably that in issue 163. Importers include Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312 and Acid Inc Selections, New York, NY; tel. (817) 687 4848