2007 - Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spatlese Goldkapsel, Vollenweider

Vollenweider's 2007 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spatlese gold capsule - largely from the original Wolfer Sonnenuhr vineyard - is overtly in the Joh. Jos. Prum mold, including its veil of yeastiness and invigorating and delicate impinging of CO2 on the palate. In fact the entire performance here is remarkably delicate, yet intense, with lily and gardenia perfume segueing into ripe melon and mango that leave a dripping sense of richness and liquid flowers for which the wine's fresh fruit acidity and spritz are a delightful foil. His vines in the Sonnenuhr are very old, explains Vollenweider, with sparse clusters that nearly always resist botrytis. You can practically inhale this wine's superb finish, and I would expect at least 12-15 years of fascination to ensue for those able and smart enough to cellar some of it. -There wasn't much botrytis this year,- in contrast with 2006, explains Daniel Vollenweider, -but what there was, was high-quality- and informed two superb nobly sweet bottlings. The virtues of 2007 including clarity and elegance play right into Vollenweider's by now very sure stylistic hand, and it will be fascinating to see how this collection evolves over the years. Although I have attempted to my prognostications conservative, I am pretty confident that some of these wines will still be going strong long after I have shuffled off these mortal coils. Importers include Vineyard Research, Inc., Lunenburg, MA; tel. 617 686 8052; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; tel. 888 274 4312; A Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selection Imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549 2444

Fruit-driven aromas of white peach and apricot, lifted by a floral element and a slight hint of spicy botrytis. The rich, creamy, sweet tropical fruit flavors and bracing minerality give this wine an intricate framework on which to develop. An auslese in depth and concentration, this spatlese remains bright and vibrant on the long, spicy finish.