2013 - Ausone, Saint-Emilion

Probably the wine of the vintage, once again. Only 9,000 bottles of the 2013 Ausone were produced, as crop size was 50% of normal. However, proprietor Alain Vauthier and his daughter certainly have proven a truly great wine can be produced in some of the most trying conditions Bordeaux wine producers have had to deal with over the last 20 years. Yields were only 22 hectoliters per hectare and the final blend was 55% Cabernet Franc and 45% Merlot. The haunting aromas of wet rocks, spring flowers, blue and black fruits and forest floor are followed by an incredibly dense, attractive wine with sweet tannin, stunning concentration and texture, medium body and a depth that is essentially unreal in a vintage such as this. The wine is a superb example of great winemaking under the most difficult circumstances. Unlike more recent Ausones, this should be reasonably drinkable in 5-6 years and yet be capable of lasting 25-30.

Where Ausone produces 100 barrels in a normal vintage, they made just 50 in 2013, and this careful selection has paid off in terms of the quality in the glass. There is both depth and grip, and estate signature. You find a lovely smoky edge, together with raspberry, reducrrant, salted cracker, saffron, white pepper and clear finesse. What proof of the quality of this estate. I tasted this wine around six months ago in a vertical, and it performed less well than in this horizontal, showing clearly that it stands out among its peers in the vintage, but not in the lineup of the estate's own wines. You'll go a long way to find a more enjoyable 2013 St Emilion. 85% new oak, 22hl/h yield. Harvest October 2-6.

Medium garnet in color, the 2013 Ausone needs a bit of shaking to wake up notes of stewed black cherries, dried cranberries, and cassis, followed by wafts of cigar box, fried herbs, and cast-iron pan. The medium-bodied palate has minerals galore, with a firm, grainy texture and bags of freshness, finishing with great length.

The 2013 Ausone has a touch more fruit intensity than the Cheval Blanc. It's well-defined with redcurrant, sage and a background minty scent that surfaces with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet, slightly candied opening. Fleshy and Merlot-driven, it misses the dimension imparted by the Cabernet Franc this year, though it contains more purity and persistence compared directly with the Cheval Blanc. Tasted at Bordeaux Index's 10-Year On tasting.

Dark shaded crimson. Very intense, almost as though it had been concentrated. Sweet start then a bit of acidity. Still quite youthful and difficult to read at this point. (JR)