2006 - Erdener Pralat Riesling Auslese, Dr. Loosen

Loosen’s 2006 Erdener Pralat Rieslng Auslese smells typically of tangerine and honey, along with brown spices and suggestions of herbal elixir. As in the case of the corresponding Treppchen – and in keeping with the “new” approach being taken here with Pralat (see issue 163) – this displays remarkable levity and refreshing citricity, its obviously high residual sugar (obvious given the 7.5% alcohol) well buffered, resulting in an absence of any superfluous sweetness. Significantly, there is not even a hint (at this youthful juncture, anyway) of caramelization. Long and subtle in its finishing interplay of citrus, herbal essences, honey, nut oils, brown spices, and mineral notes, this should drink magnificently for more than 30 years. Ernst Loosen, Bernard Schug, and their team finished their harvest on October 6, before many growers had even begun. “Thank goodness we were able to bring 15 people up from Weingut J. L. Wolf in the Pfalz,” says Loosen about the hectic and heroic day-and-night harvest of 2006. “We’ve never before had 50 people out there in the vineyards.” “Those guys from the Pfalz had just plain had it at the end, I can tell you,” adds Schug, without a trace of humor. But he brightens when assessing the vintage as a whole. “I considered the 2005s the best collection of my career, but at this stage, I don’t think 2006 as a whole is weaker.” During the past three vintages in his collaborative work with Chateau Ste. Michelle in Washington State, Loosen points out, he has moved on to their harvest after that of his own estate in the “cool climate ‘Old World.’” Importer: Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR; tel. (510) 864-7255

(for 375 ml.) Pale golden yellow. Peach preserve, quince jelly and clove plus a note of honeyed botrytis on the nose. Extremely light on its feet in spite of its sheer density, with a lush and inviting passion fruit flavor underpinned by brown spice and salty minerality. Finely spiced, subtly persistent finish.

Rich with clementines, incredible depth of sweet purity yet still delicate and charming. Also available in half bottles.