2020 - Chambertin Grand Cru, Armand Rousseau

Rousseau's 2020 Chambertin Grand Cru is brilliant, unwinding in the glass with aromas of wild berries, orange rind, plums, exotic spices, Egyptian musk, woodsmoke and rose petals. Full-bodied, velvety and concentrated, it's deep and tightly wound, with striking intensity and energy. Still very primary, even after a year's élevage, it will require patience, but it's a magical Chambertin in the making.

The 2020 Chambertin Grand Cru is a little oakier on the nose than its peers, though it remains proportionate to the fruit. There's a little more concentration, maybe slightly later-picked, and then I notice a touch of TCA. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, a keen line of acidity, a structure and more austere Chambertin, even though there is plenty of fruit. Just a bit of dryness on the finish. I think the scintilla of TCA just shaves this Chambertin, and an untainted bottle would shine. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.

Cask sample. Slightly brighter colour than the Clos St-Jacques. Tip-of-the-tongue sweetness. Deft and fleet of foot, weightless. Exciting, exotic and luxurious. (MH)