2009 - Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, Camille Giroud

The 2009 Charmes-Chambertin is open, sleek and seductive. Silky tannins frame a ripe, generous core of fruit. This is a typical 2009 Charmes, long on the fruit but lacking a touch of verve that might otherwise elevate it. Dried flowers and red berries linger on the finish. This is a true Charmes sourced from the upper portion of that vineyard. Tasted from tank. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. I was very impressed with the wines I tasted at Camille Giroud. While top selections are hugely successful, readers should also pay attention to the village wines, which deliver plenty of character at accessible prices. Most of the wines are made from purchased fruit sourced from growers with whom the winery has long term relationships. The harvest took place between the 8th and 15th of September. Sugar levels were higher than in 2005. Macerations were on the long side in 2009, and ranged from 19-24 days versus the more typical 12-17. Most of the wines were made from 100% destemmed fruit, although a few selections - the Corton-Rognets and Chambertin in particular - saw some whole bunches. Malos were completed between February and April 2010 and the wines were not racked during their aging. Bottling began just after harvest 2010 for some of the early maturing reds, but most of the wines were still in barrel at the time of my visit in late February, with the exception of the Grands Crus, most of which had been racked into steel and were awaiting bottling towards the end of March. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Willette Wines, NJ; tel. (917) 400-2238; Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640

(this has a pH of 3.8, like the Corton Rognet): Medium red. Fresh aromas of raspberry, flowers and sexy smoky oak. Similarly bright and aromatic in the middle palate, with a delicacy to the red fruit and floral flavors. Nicely vibrant for the vintage. Finishes with substantial dusty tannins, some saline soil tones and lingering notes of red fruits and dried flowers. I would not have picked this for a high-pH wine.