2023 - Art Series Chardonnay, Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River

The 2023 Art Series Chardonnay shows the oak more clearly than some other vintages in the tasting lineup, though I attribute that to the adherence of the estate to the 100% new French oak élevage regardless of the conditions, coupled with the cooler, more benign conditions of the 2023 season, which, by the way, was sensational. The wine leads with white peach, cashews, fennel seeds, preserved lemon and brine, while the palate shows staining intensity from the fruit. There is a sensational display of the Gingin clone, powered by a shimmering exhaust of acidity and shaped by firm phenolics. This is excellent. Following a typically wet and windy winter in 2022, a prolonged cool and drizzly spring persisted until early November, when conditions became warmer and drier. From that point, the growing season was characterized by stable weather, with warm, sunny conditions continuing through to early April. Flowering in Chardonnay and Pinot Noir occurred in early November under favorable weather conditions, supporting consistent fruit set and bunch development. Summer temperatures were generally moderate, ranging from 26 to 32 degrees Celsius, with few significant heat events or rainfall interruptions. These conditions contributed to a gradual and even ripening period, allowing fruit to develop flavor, concentration and acidity in parallel. In the absence of significant marri flowering across the region, bird pressure in the vineyard was higher than in some previous seasons, necessitating extensive netting to protect the crop. Chardonnay harvest commenced on 23 February and continued through to the first week of March. The season was characterized by steady ripening and relatively uniform fruit development across vineyard sites.