1978 - Hermitage La Chapelle Rouge, Paul Jaboulet Aine

From a perfectly balanced vintage, the 1978 Hermitage La Chapelle is a perfect wine and one of the most compelling bottles in this vertical. Fermented with whole clusters—as the nose makes abundantly clear—it wafts from the glass with an extraordinary bouquet of flowers, truffle and dark fruits, with an incredible freshness that defies its age, mingled with delicate notes of fresh licorice. Full-bodied, dense and structured without heaviness, it has contained power, a magnificent texture, a rooted and telluric depth and a long, elegant finish of breathtaking precision, though a pyrazine note emerges with aeration. This is still magnificent.

A collection of stunning older northern Rhônes puts a strong exclamation point on this night of fabulous food, wine and conversation. The 1978 La Chapelle from Jaboulet is full of deep, woodsy aromas and flavors. Still, deep, rich and positively explosive in the glass, the 1978 is a real treat to taste and drink. The 1978 remains remarkably youthful, even if it has (understandably) faded just a touch since I tasted it a few years ago.

From Kate Dugdale's cellar. The Wine Society bottling did not show well (volatile and dry).Evolved and meaty nose. Rich and meaty on the palate, too. Smooth but still chewy, really good depth of fruit. Full in the mouth, smoky meat. Alive and generous and still well balanced. Savoury finish tapers off a little at the end. (JH)