2012 - L'Eglise-Clinet, Pomerol

A wine that wins my nomination for the title of "wine of the vintage" is the 2012 L'Eglise Clinet, a fleshy and enveloping Pomerol evocative of dark cherries and berries mingled with licorice, spices, pencil lead, truffle and rose petals. Full-bodied, broad and textural, it's lavish and expansive, with terrific depth at the core, supple tannins and a long, resonant finish. Seamless, charming and impeccably balanced, this transcends the vintage, and while it's deceptively drinkable now, it remains a mere adolescent at age 11.

The 2012 L'Eglise-Clinet is medium to deep garnet colored. It prances out with showy, gregarious notes of candied violets, kirsch, and black cherry compote, followed by plum preserves, Ceylon tea, charcoal, and cinnamon toast. The full-bodied palate has gorgeous, open-knit, perfumed layers, with super-plush tannins and lovely freshness, finishing long and perfumed.

The carefully-crafted precision of the fruits is clear right from the first nose. A serious, subdued L'Eglise Clinet at 10 years old, putting a marker down in terms of carefully-crafted fruits and fine-boned tannins. Enjoyable, tertiary notes of truffles and earth are just beginning to surface. 80% new oak.

The 2012 l'Eglise-Clinet is well-defined on the nose: blackberry, cassis, touches of wild mint and violet. This is very Margaux-like. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins, fleshy and ripe, good density and concentration. One of the most flamboyant 2012s in the line-up, this has so much purity on the finish. Gorgeous. Tasted blind at the Southwold Ten-Year On tasting.

Dark crimson. Headily rich – almost furry on the nose. Definitely sweet and definitely an opulent Pomerol with sweetness initially, finishing with a certain inkiness. Neat, dry finish after a super-opulent palate. (JR)