2005 - Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combe aux Moines Vieille Vigne, Fourrier

The 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Combe aux Moines smells of bouillon, game, spices, fresh red fruits and a hint of caramel. In the mouth, it offers texturally more refined and more roasted, rich variations on the meaty, mineral themes introduced by Fourrier’s Les Goulots. For all of its ripeness and chalky, stony mineral density, and marrowy depth, this wine (like its siblings, hovering around a mere 13% alcohol) displays dynamism and lift. The articulate and opinionated Jean-Marie Fourrier staunchly believes in the inclusion of uncrushed fruit (to among other things prolong fermentation and, he claims, diminish the efficiency of alcoholic conversion); leaving the young wines on their lees (with high CO2 retention) eighteen months before bottling; employing a mere 20% of new barrels for all wines; and applying only minimal doses of sulfur. That the property from which he sources is all owned outright, and is largely in vines of over fifty years age planted by his father or grandfather before the days of clones certainly helps explain the consistently excellent quality at this address. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

Good full red. Explosive aromas of red fruits, musky game and animal fur. Round, fresh and suave, with compelling sweetness of fruit and density of texture. For all its richness, this is impressively pure and fresh. Finishes with terrific juicy lift. It's hard to imagine that most of these 2005s won't shut down in the bottle at some point, but today most of them are all about sex appeal.