2010 - Chambolle-Musigny, Georges Roumier

Bright, deep red. Sappy aromas of raspberry, spices and minerals. Sweet, supple and lush, offering excellent volume for village wine. The wine's sappy quality gives it inner-mouth energy and early deliciousness. Christophe Roumier expressed the opinion in November that the 2012s don't have enough tannins to really shut down in the bottle; on the other hand, he reported seeing more pips in 2010 than in 2011, a year in which the phenolic ripeness came earlier here.

As outlined in Nick's article on Costa Brava favourites, Villa Mas is the place to go if you want a wide range of Roumier wines at excellent prices – and many another fine Burgundy (and now Beaujolais) too. After a long discussion with Nuria the sommelier I chose the 2010. We were worried about the ripeness of the 2009. She is a massive fan of how the 2008 is tasting now and I should probably have followed her advice, but I have much more enthusiastic memories of the 2010s (especially Roumier's Cras), so went for 2010. We were not disappointed. This – ok, a lowly(!) village wine – was everything that red burgundy should be: subtle, profound, richly fruity but not remotely sweet and extremely long. The texture was a sort of glistening, tantalising taffeta – not soft. There is no hurry to drink this wine. If I had to specify a fruit it would be red cherries. But it was so much more complex than a single fruit, with some spicy notes too and wonderful vitality. Bravo, Christophe, and Carlos who assembled this great burgundy list. (JR)