2008 - La Conseillante, Pomerol

The beautiful 2008 exhibits a dark plum/ruby/purple color as well as jammy red and black fruit, crushed rock and floral notes. If this were a Burgundy, one might think of it as a grand cru Musigny. With excellent texture, medium to full body and stunning purity as well as nobility, this fascinating Pomerol should drink well for 15-20 years.

The 2008 La Conseillante has an attractive bouquet at ten years of age, unfolding discretely in the glass with engaging scents of Morello cherry, blackcurrant, orange pith, cedar and a touch of mint. The delineation here is very impressive. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin and a keen thread of acidity. It conveys energy and vivacity and then develops a quite irony note towards the second half with traces of white pepper and bay leaf infusing the red and black fruit. What I appreciate here is its focus and drive, a Pomerol intent on longevity. It is drinking perfectly well now, but it will have more to give. (Tasted at the château and at BI Wine and Spirit’s annual vertical tasting.)

This remains fairly knitted down and needs a good 30 minutes in the glass to open. Toasted oak notes, liqourice root, powerful fennel and aniseed, cassis and bilberry, black pepper spice, some fresh acidities even at 13 years old. This was a complicated summer season in Pomerol followed by a beatuful harvest and there is real charm and balance in this wine. 80% new oak, 20% one year old barrels, 34hl/h yield, harvest September 26 to October 7.

Tasted blind. Light colour. Scented, Cabernet leafiness. Not that concentrated but juicy and fluid. Acid quite marked. (JR)