2009 - d'Yquem, Sauternes

In comparison to the 2010 vintage, the 2009 d'Yquem is more concentrated with a stunning "rôti," the consequence of noble rot in French. Developing a powerful, complex bouquet with aromas of pineapple, apricot, saffron, flowers, spices and orchard fruits, it’s dense and concentrated, full-bodied and layered with a crystalline texture complicated by notes of white truffles that reveal a racy, endless and a superb finish concluding with a pristine harmony. Readers with bottles in their cellars will have to be patient before opening this masterpiece with 155 grams of residual sugar.

A blend of 80% Semillon and 20% Sauvignon Blanc, with 155 grams per liter of residual sugar, the 2009 Yquem has a pale to medium straw-gold color. It waltzes out with gregarious notions of key lime pie, orange blossoms, and juicy white peaches, followed by suggestions of ginger ale, wet pebbles, and allspice. The big, concentrated, decadently rich palate is fantastically balanced, with a laser-precise line of freshness cutting through the tightly wound layers, finishing very long, with loads of citrusy sparks.

Rich, nuanced, opulent, intense, totally gorgeous, smoked caramel, powerful citrus and pink grapefruit, pineapple, saffron, tarte tartin, almonds, truffles, hard to beat. 137g/l residual sugar.

The 2009 d'Yquem is a vintage that I have awarded perfect scores to in the past however, neither bottles merit that on this occasion. The first bottle feels scalped, so much so that a second bottle is checked. This has a very refined and sophisticated bouquet with wild honey, brioche, vanilla pod and light orange blossom aromas, beautifully refined. The palate is very well defined with fine acidity, very elegant in style with pure botrytised fruit and superb acidity on the finish. Ah...that is more like it. However, on this occasion it does not quite hit the high notes. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.

More grassy than the 2015 just tasted, with honey and golden syrup and plenty of volatile-acidity character. Fatter and richer than the 2015, and a burnt-sugar flavour dominates. An embarrassment of riches. (RH)