1997 - Ermitage De l'Oree, M. Chapoutier

It is no secret that I adore Chapoutier's luxury cuvee of white Hermitage called Cuvee L'Oree. Made from 90-year old vines and microscopic yields of 10-12 hectoliters per hectare, this wine flirts with perfection. It is a compelling white Hermitage. Made from 100% Marsanne, it is as rich and multidimensional as the fullest, most massive Montrachet money can buy. It is unctuously textured, yet extraordinarily and beautifully balanced. I suspect it will drink well early in life, and then shut down for a few years. It should last for 4-5 decades. It is a huge, chewy, multidimensional wine with spectacular concentration and richness. Notes of white flowers, honey, minerals, and peaches are present in astronomical quantities. In short, this wine must be tasted to be believed. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

More polite but superripe aromas of apple and honey. Very rich on the palate, with flavors of apple, honey and hazelnut complicated by suggestions of roasted herbs, grass and white flowers. Fat, dense and satisfying. This is over 14% alcohol with no chaptalization.