2007 - Paganos Nieta, Rioja

(100% tempranillo) Opaque purple. Heady aromas of boysenberry, gingerbread, flowers, licorice and clove, plus a smoky quality that gains strength with air. Deeply concentrated dark berry flavors are enlivened by a zesty mineral quality and complicated by sweet violet pastille and cola notes. There's a graceful, focused character to the wine that's a shock given its sheer size and flavor impact, and the tannins are almost completely absorbed by the luscious fruit. Finishes with a strong whiplash of candied flowers and outstanding persistence.

The 2007 La Nieta displays aromas of pain grille, pencil lead, incense, and assorted black fruits leading to a full-bodied, voluminous, intense wine with plenty of structure and impeccable balance. This lengthy effort merits 5-7 years of cellaring and should be at its best from 2015 to 2027, if not longer. Vinedos de Paganos, one of the outstanding Rioja estates, is owned by the Eguren family. The El Puntido cuvee comes from the single Tempranillo vineyard of the same name planted in 1975. It is typically aged in new French oak for 18 months before bottling without filtration. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767