2005 - Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts, Jean Grivot

Grivot’s 2005 Vosne-Romanee Les Beaumonts delivers scents of blackberry, cassis, violets, fennel, and pungent brown spices. Clear and invigorating in fruit, yet creamy and mouth-coating, this brings spices, flowers and a note of chalk into its long, refined finish. The tannins are superbly fine and the longer this opens in the glass the more perfumed it becomes. Etienne Grivot aimed this year for gentle extraction (essentially without pigeage), then watchful preservation of the freshness, subtleties and refinement inherent in near-perfect raw material. He performed some very light chaptalization to extend the fermentations. Given the health and natural concentration of his vinous raw material, he felt no need to sulfur or rack the wines until shortly prior to bottling (without filtration), which was the stage at which I tasted. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400.

Bright, full red. Musky red fruits, minerals and licorice on the reticent but pure nose. At once cool and sweet, with terrific life to the flavors of red cherry, licorice and minerals. A wonderfully delicate and suave wine that appears to be in the process of shutting down in the bottle. Finishes with firm-edged tannins, excellent structure and superb persistence. This is built for extended aging, and will almost certainly merit a higher score a decade from now.