2009 - Cote Rotie Seigneur de Maugiron, Delas

The 2009 Cote Rotie Seigneur de Maugiron exhibits lots of spice, raspberry, cassis, licorice, incense, Christmas fruitcake and fried bacon notes. The smokiness, seductiveness, lusciousness and medium to full-bodied, round, generous texture make for an endearing, sexy Cote Rotie to enjoy over the next 10-15 years. There is not much of the Cote Rotie La Landonne (approximately 500 cases produced), but it ranks alongside the great La Landonnes made by Marcel and Philippe Guigal. Another great negociant with significant vineyard holdings, and at the top of their game, is undeniably Delas, owned by the Louis Roederer/Deutz Champagne firm. Since they acquired Delas well over a decade ago, this firm has been under the management of Burgundian Jacques Grange, who has done an outstanding job producing a sensational array of wines. The 2009s appear to be their finest overall performances to date, and the 2010s are noteworthy successors in a more restrained, mineral dominated, crisper style. Jacques Grange did a fabulous job with his Cote Roties in both 2009 and 2010, the latter being a somewhat more challenging vintage in this appellation. The Hermitage Domaine des Tourettes (until the 2009 vintage, this offering was known as the Hermitage Marquise de la Tourette) is sensational in both 2010 and 2009. Three thousand cases of this cuvee are produced, and the wine is aged in French oak, 50% new. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Vivid ruby. Red and dark berries and star anise on the fragrant nose. A juicy, seamless midweight that shows the elegant side of Cote-Rotie. Fresh black raspberry and cherry flavors put on weight with air while maintaining brightness. Closes with strong spicy cut and grip.

Barrel sample: this is a single lot from La Landonne but it has not yet been decided whether it will be bottled as such or go into the Seigneur de Maugiron blend. Deep black cherry, not quite as vibrant as the Hermitage. Wonderfully inviting nose of dark fruit and violets. So perfumed and fresh. Then a dry, dark, fine-grained finesse on the palate. At the moment just a little abrupt on the finish but it’s fresh and lively and may grow a little in the bottle as it loosens up. (JH)