1994 - Graham's, Vintage

The 1994 Graham’s Vintage Port, which incidentally carries quite noticeable sediment, as there is no fining or filtration, is beginning to show a little bricking on the rim. The bouquet is very harmonious and welcoming, featuring aromas of mulberry, roasted chestnut, pressed rose petals, autumn leaves and a hint of liquorice. The nose is not powerful; rather, it displays a brooding intensity. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannin and lightly spiced with clove, pain d’épices and again, a scintilla of liquorice. Though it obviously has another 20 or 30 years in the tank, this mellow Graham’s is drinking beautifully now. Tasted at the Symington Tawny Port tasting at the Tower of London.

The 1994 Vintage Port is going to be re-released. It has about 100 grams per liter of residual sugar. With a big eucalyptus note up front, this is elegant in the mid-palate with controlled tannins. Sweet and easy in some ways, this is readily approachable now, perhaps not at peak, but more expressive than the relatively brooding Dow's, also reviewed. The hint of caramel and raisins mixed with sugar makes this irresistible. It is sexy and intriguing.

The best vintage of the 1990s. 'It was difficult to decide which wines to exclude,' according to Johnny Symington. Blackish ruby. Prunes, liquorice and eucalyptus flavours. Rich and treacly. High toned on the nose and very luscious on the palate. Already great fun to drink. (JR)