2008 - Belair-Monange, Saint-Emilion

The first substantial and reassuringly great Belair-Monange in many decades, the 2008 represents the epitome of elegance and minerality. Its deep ruby/purple color is accompanied by sweet red and black fruits intermixed with notes of spring flowers and crushed rocks, a layered mouthfeel, superb nobility and remarkable intensity offered in a finesse-filled format. Kudos to Edouard and Christian Moueix for their resurrection of this iconic 6.2 acre vineyard.

The 2008 Bélair-Monange was the first vintage where Christian Moueix had total control of the vineyard after his acquisition of the historic property. It has a crisp red cherry and crushed strawberry nose that perhaps needs more intensity. It feels airy, almost Burgundian in style. The palate is medium-bodied with a supple, quite fleshy opening. There is good body here, belying the structure underneath although I discerned a touch of greenness on the finish. Moueix’s tenure has produced better Belair’s than the 2008 and I would consume bottles over the next four to five years. (Tasted at BI Wine and Spirit’s annual 10-Year On tasting.)

Very traditional nose with all the leather and aniseed notes of maturing bordeaux – a great example of the classic claret flavour set. Appetising structure with ample fruit concentration, refreshing acidity and rounded tannic feel. (RH)