2010 - Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac

Hard to give a wine of the vintage in 2010, as there are so many exceptional bottles from the top estates, but it's not so hard to say that Pauillac is the appellation of the year - and this Mouton shows you why. Gunsmoke and campfire aromatics, glamorously encapsulating the house style with its plush and juicy damson and black cherry fruits, supremely confident, studded with pomegranate, orange peel, cumin and freshly cut herbs, generous without relinquishing control, deceptively supple tannins that know exactly what to do. Will deliver for decades, and it is an exceptionally beautiful wine. 100% new oak, Philippe Dhalluin director. Tasted ex-retail, not ex-château.

The 2010 Mouton-Rothschild is very deep in colour. It has an intense bouquet with blackberry, wild hedgerow, sous-bois and touches of peppermint. The palate is medium-bodied with very supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity. There is incredible focus to this First Growth with fabulous mineralité and tension on the finish. Tasted from an ex-château bottle at the BI Wines & Spirits 10-Year On tasting.

Deep garnet in color, the 2010 Mouton Rothschild is a little closed to begin, slowly unfurling to reveal notes of baked black cherries, crème de cassis, blackberry compote and bouquet garni with suggestions of sweaty leather, pencil lead, cedar chest and black truffles plus a hint of crushed rocks. Full-bodied, the palate is solidly constructed of super firm, ripe, grainy tannins and lively acidity, framing the densely packed black fruit, finishing on a persistent mineral note.

94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot. Deep garnet. Black fruit, brick dust, and a touch of violet. Hesitant nose, and the palate is similarly light and lithe. Attractive mushiness to the fruit as it matures, perhaps a bretty sort of farmyard character, but the overall complexity and intensity is less forthcoming than the other first growths from this vintage, at least on this occasion. (RH)