2000 - Lagrange, Saint-Julien

Deep ruby red in colour at 22 years old. Tertiary notes on the palate, woodsmoke, ash, smoked earth. There are fruits here but they are gentle, the emphasis is on spice and smoke. Rosebud, jasmine, concentrated damson, absolutely ready to drink at this point, the tannins are still very present but they have a succulent and gentle feel. 50% new oak. Lowest percentage ever of overall production, 34% 1st wine, with an unusual blend for the time with high Cabernet Sauvignon, so a window into the kind of blend that they have today. Jacques and Eric Boissenot consultants.

The 2000 Lagrange is deep in color and sports a bouquet very similar to the bottle poured at the vertical, resplendent with blackberry, pencil box and a discreet ash scent. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, and maybe less brutish than the previous bottle, displaying more cohesion and less austerity on the finish. This is delightful and the best example that I have encountered.

An impressive performance by Lagrange, the 2000 possesses a saturated ruby/purple color with obvious notes of melted licorice, creme de cassis, and toasty new oak. This ripe, dense, full-bodied St.-Julien is chewy, thick, high in tannin, large-bodied, and impressively long and dense. As always, it is less expressive than some of its peers, but it is loaded as well as reasonably priced. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2030.

The 2000 Lagrange, 76% Cabernet Sauvignon and 24% Merlot, is deep garnet-brick in color. It rolls out of the glass with expressive notions of Chinese five spice, tobacco leaf, and cast-iron pan followed by a core of prunes, fruitcake, and dried herbs. The medium-bodied palate delivers elegant, refreshing black fruit and spicy layers supported by soft tannins, finishing long and minerally.

Mid crimson. Attractive scent and development on the nose. Well balanced and well judged – neat – even if not a blockbuster. Quite introvert but confident with great balance. No hurry to drink. (JR)