2003 - Quinta do Noval, Vintage

The Quinta do Noval Vintage 2003 has a gorgeous raisin, fig and clove-scented bouquet with more freshness than the whole of Pomerol combined. As Christian Seely quipped, “the vines are accustomed to the heat”. It unfolds in the glass, gaining vigor, if not complexity, with touches of leather, California raisin and dried flower emerging. The palate is medium-bodied with very supple tannins, dishing out lovely ripe and intense blackberry, leather, sage, tobacco and white- pepper notes. In this vintage, the Noval Vintage does not possess the breeding or the bravura of the Nacional and yet it remains a very impressive Port – a success for the vintage. Drink 2016-2030+ Tasted January 2014.

Saturated deep ruby. Sweet aromas of black cherry, cassis, licorice, molasses, minerals, toffee and violet. Dense, sweet and pliant, with outstanding precision and depth of flavor. Like the Silval, this boasts a seductively creamy texture. The explosive, mounting finish offers a fine dusting of ripe, suave tannins and great breadth. Deceptively easy to taste today owing to its finesse, but it's hard to believe that it won't shut down in bottle in the near future. This wine features a particularly high percentage of touriga nacional.

Full bottle 1,341 g. (Not many bottles left chez Handford apparently.)  Shaded deep garnet. Gamey, meaty nose with, obviously, a lot of heat. Rather loose-textured. I’m not sure I’m enjoying it as much as some of the much younger single-quinta ports. Very savoury, almost meat-extract, and rather drying finish. This bottle is not a pleasing as those tasted earlier, alas. Not sure whether it’s the wine or the bottle. (JR)