2005 - Pichon Baron, Pauillac

The 2005 Pichon Baron was tasted against the 1995 and is a far superior vintage. Director Christian Seely commented that there was about half the volume in this vintage due to selection. This has a mineral-driven bouquet with layered black fruit, wild mint and light graphite scents giving way to touches of black truffle. The palate is medium-bodied, fresh and vibrant with finely chiselled tannins and plenty of grip and substance. Still, there is precision here and wonderful sustain on the finish. This is drinking beautifully now but will last many years. Tasted at the château.

The 2005 Pichon Baron is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc. Deep garnet-brick in color, it rolls effortlessly out of the glass with open-knit scents of blackcurrant pastilles, blackberry preserves, and licorice, with hints of mocha, black truffles, and unsmoked cigars. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is firm, with ripe, grainy tannins, supporting the voluptuous mid-palate fruit, finishing long and decadent. Maturing now, this is a 2005 with great richness and soft acidity. It is delicious right now and should continue to cellar to 2040+.

A fine tannic frame, blackberry and cassis fruits, hints of cigar, rosebud and tobacco leaf. You will be able to find more generous examples of the 2005 vintage in Pauillac appellation right now, as there remains some austerity to the tannins through the mid palate, but this is a vintage that has proved stubborn over the past 15 years, and is only just starting to come into its own - I would suggest giving this another few years and then checking back in. 80% new oak. Watch out for bottle variation - a second bottle we opened showed more nuance and generosity. Jean-Rene Matignon technical director.